Those who are close to fashion may already have noticed that it’s going through turbulent times now. Luxury brands one after another announce replacements of the leading designers. For instance, Bénédicte de Ginestous left Saint Laurent and was rapidly replaced by Anthony Vaccarello. Soon after that Bouchra Jarrar took Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. But frequent reshuffle is not the only astonishing thing. More interesting is fashion tendency to shift to “see now/buy now” model.


Leading pioneers

For decades the world of big fashion has been keeping to the strong rules: the tradition of four-month break between the runway and its appearance in market.  However, now it’s gradually moving towards new shift – “see now/buy now” model, which allows consumers to purchase right after a show. The reason for such transformation is easy to understand: four-month gap is enough for fast-fashion copies to arrive and for customers to get less excited about new collection and sometimes even forget about it. Besides, some designers say that showing collections in advance requires the great amount of money and efforts and results not always compensate the costs.

The first pioneer was Burberry, which made a lot of noise announcing that it will no longer separate men’s and women’s collection and will show them together in “see now/buy now” format. To make it real the brand has to fully reorganize its system and provide seasonless collections to make it more comfortable for consumers living in different climate conditions. Also, chief creative and chief executive officer of Burberry, Christopher Bailey, mentioned that now the brand will have more opportunities to collaborate with partners: “As we are starting to create the collection, we will have to commit to fabrics or trims or embroideries. It’s more of a partnership than a hand over on one specific date.”However, the moves to the change were already apparent in 2010, when Burberry started live-streaming its fashion shows online, offering viewer to buy some accessories online.


Burberry Revenue Income Growth


Just a few hours later after Burberry, Tom Ford surprised the industry by saying that it won’t show the women’s collection autumn/winter 2016, but combine it with men’s collection in September, making both available online and in store the very day of the show.


Who and how can benefit from it?

Actually, brands shift to this new model in order to achieve three main goals. Firstly, they hope to encourage more consumers to buy right after the show. Secondly, by providing collections immediately brands plan to make money from full-price selling. And, of course, it’s obvious that “see now/buy now” model will prevent market from fast-fashion copies. Burberry and Moschino have already tested this model and made sure that it can really double their income.

“See now/buy now” model is also can be profitable for beauty fashion. Burberry and Tom Ford have their own beauty lines and now it will be easier for them to coordinate makeup lines with big fashion, so they are already adopting the new format. In 2015 Burberry, as a pioneer, has already carried out an experiment on Twitter, offering three nail lacquers on sale just after the runway.


Fashion should remain art

Though the profit of “see now/buy now” is obvious, some designers and marketers doubt whether it is a reasonable shift or not. For instance, Domenico Dolche and Steffano Gabbana have criticized this new format. They noted, that production extremely depends on designer’s rhythm of work and it’s not just a commercial, but a pure art. They also think that a designer may be changing the collection till the very beginning of the show and it’s almost impossible to leave it without changes. Unlike Burberry and Tom Ford, Dolche&Gabbana has no intention to combine its men’s and women’s collections.

It’s hard to say yet, whether this system will work or not and how big fashion lovers will perceive it. But it’s already obvious that fashion is going through surprising transformation and we can say goodbye to the traditional fashion calendar which seems to be out of fashion now.

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