The show at London Fashion Week Men’s AW17 is an invitation to a huge rave party. But this party is imbued with one warning: hangover always follows the fun night and there will be no way to escape from the reality.

Do you feel rave vibes hanging in the air? If not, then look at London Fashion Week Men’s. Fashion has an amazing sensibility to society sentiment and feelings. It will guide you not only through trends, but also through people`s emotions and expectations. Most of the collections, presented at London Fashion Week Men’s, brought us back to 90`s and it’s clubbing and raving culture. Rave was considered through the prism of melancholy instead of fun. Oversized shapes, neon colors, baggy clothes – all these drew the fine line between utopia and dystopia.

Let`s take a look at the latest trends and try to understand why did such ideas and vibes ever appeared on the runway.

 

Trend #1: Ravers from 90`s

Topman displayed “1990s rave graphics and neons”. Here we distinctly feel the influence of rave culture anarchy. Nylon macs, fluorescent colors, psychedelic prints turned the catwalk into vibrant kaleidoscope. Booming soundtrack by Trevor Jackson set the right tone – the atmosphere of the show along with the designs make the rave melody play heavy in our heads. Basically,the collection has it all: ripped jeans, relaxed-leg trousers, gelled-down fringes, leggings with a tattoo print and parka jackets. Oily-skinned models with piercings and greasy hair dressed in vivid Topman designs got the London party started!

Fashion Week Men’s AW17

Fashion Week Men’s AW17

Сhristopher Shannon`s models appeared on the runway wearing bizarre flag masks on their faces. European, maritime and rainbow flags were almost transparent. The collection featured logos of three iconic brands from the 90`s: Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss and Timberland. The logos turned into “Constant Stress”, “Loss” and “Tumbleweed”, declaring that something painful and bad was going on.

Fashion Week Men’s AW17

Fashion Week Men’s AW17

 

Trend #2: Dystopian spirits

Liam Hodges took us on a journey to his science-fiction world. When the voiceover sounded the “decline of western civilization”, the runway soaked with grim vibes and various shades of green: from olive to acid green. Hodges` collection features his signature voluminous shapes as well as post-apocalyptic prints and trucker jackets. Some of the designs had a military touch – digitally printed camouflage Levi’s jeans, for example. Accessories also reflect dystopian spirits: models wore the hats, reminding those the characters from anti-utopian film “A Clockwork Orange” by Kubrick wore.

Fashion Week Men’s AW17

Fashion Week Men’s AW17

Charles Jeffrey`s LOVERBOY served up an amazing performance. It started with zombie-like procession, where dancers covered with mud took part. Jeffrey worries about modern political instability, and we see his anxiety in the performance. In a moment paper maché monsters and models filled the runway, depicting the diversity of London`s nightlife.  It is a mixture of fantasy and underground.

Fashion Week Men’s AW17

 

True reasons of rave revival

Fashion instinctively returned to rave culture and its style: hedonism, electric underground atmosphere, baggy clothes, military silhouettes, bright patterns, 90`s prints, declaring trauma. What does this mix of flashy prints, neons and rave attributes mean?

Apparently, today`s generation has everything, to build happy successful lives. However they all understand, that the world is not a safe place, especially now, when the world is drowning in politics, various conflicts and thirst for power. “Rave” means crazy and fun party, yet it doesn`t sound funny anymore. Our generation is depressed and raves are some kind of escape from horrible things. Rave is a short time span, where we can forget about problems, fears, anxiety and just enjoy music and unity.  We all know that everything eventually comes to the end: utopic worlds turn into dystopic and routine comes after vibrant neon raves. This is what London Fashion Week Men’s was about.

Fashion Week Men’s AW17

Ravers dreamt of the different world. This is the world that turned out to be so far from what the ravers were looking for. This is the world that clearly reminds of something the ravers wanted to escape from. And now rave culture anarchy comes to life again. Because the youth is disillusioned and they need to forget, at least for one night.

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